This posting is for my own personal gratification, so please feel free to stop reading if you get bored. Charlotte and I decided to take Carrie Rose to Boston this year for the Tall Ships Festival. I purposely never added up the miles to and fro over the winter. I knew it was far. I did not want the number of miles firmly lodge in my mind. At this I succeeded, until now that is.
I write this anchored in North Haven’s Pulpit Harbor, not far from where we began, and doing the math we traveled 370 nautical miles. For a boat that averages around 7 to 8 knots that’s no small trip. Cruising is all about navigation. Even when 10nm offshore there is still no room for error. Carrie Rose must stay on the proper bearing despite the influence of wind, waves, tides, currents, lobster buoys, fishing and recreational boats.
I make incremental adjustments to the autopilot to keep us on course. It is not unusual for Carrie Rose to crab into the waves and currents to stay on course. Due to the various rocks and ragged shorelines, it is not hard to imagine how the multitude of ships met their end. Charlotte marks the chart as we make headway and I monitor the various screens in front of me. Neither of us have time to ponder the many oddly named rocks, ledges, points, navigational buoys, islands, bays, etc. that we pass.
With our newfound free time sitting here at anchor I thought I would make a list of the above, beginning in Boston and ending in Pulpit Harbor. This is going to be a pedantic exercise, but maybe I will surprise myself once I get writing.
Boston is a magnificent harbor. We exit out President Road and get forced to the South Channel because of the traffic separation scheme for the Tall Ships Festival. On our way through South Channel, we pass Ram Head, Aldridge Ledge, Davies Back and Commissioners Ledge with The Graves off to the east.
Once through Broad Sound we are in Massachusetts Bay. On the way to Gloucester we pass Halfway Rock, Southeast and Middle Breakers, and Newcomb Ledge with Marblehead and Salem to the west by 3nm. We keep Easter Point and Round Rock Shoal to the starboard and head into Gloucester Harbor.
The red buoys (red, right, returning) lead us pass Ten Pound and Mayflower Ledge, and by Ten Pound Island and the famous artist colony of Rocky Neck into the inner harbor where we pick up a mooring for a few days.
On the way out to Gloucester’s Western Harbor we pass Harbor Cove, the location of the maritime museum and several schooners and historic ship replicas. Now we wait for the Blynman Bridge to open and let us into the Blynman Canal. It meets up with the Annisquam River, passes Lobster Cove and then out into Ipswich Bay.
This passage takes us 10nm offshore where we leave The Isles of Shoals 3nm to our port. The wind and the waves get rowdy here making identifying Boon Is. Ledge and Hussy Rock more complicated than we would have liked.
To get to Biddeford and Wood Island Harbor we keep Washman Rock and Danbury Reef to the port, and Wood and Negro Islands to the starboard. We keep our cool here despite the vicious thunderstorm that descends upon us as we attach to our mooring.
On the way out, now heading for South Bristol, we go between Stage and Negro Islands, and pass Negro Island Ledge into Saco Bay. With Cape Elizabeth and Portland to the west we pass Old Anthony Rock and West Cod Ledge. Of course, there is West Cod Ledge Rock to clear before entering Casco Bay.
We are offshore again and Casco Bay offers up a plenitude of obstacles: Bulwark Shoal, East Cod Ledge, Cape Small, we pass between Sequin Island and Mile Ledge, and let’s not forget Tom’s Rock and The Sisters off Sheepscot Bay.
We are closing in on South Bristol now. Boothbay is left for another day as is Linekin Bay, and we pass between Ocean Point and The Fisherman and Hypocrites. We have second thoughts but end up threading through geologically splendid Thread of Life (Aka Threat to Boat) and into Johns Bay and River. Once through Corvette Ledge and McFarlands Ledges Carrie Rose gets to rest for a few days in McFarlands Cove across from Witch Island.
You will be glad to hear this is the last leg of the trip. Out into Johns Bay with Rutherford Island to the west and the smaller Johns Island to the east. Pemaquid Point is rounded into Muscongus Bay. There are the two narrow passages of Egg Rock North Ledge and Davis Strait to negotiate, and then Mosquito Island and into Muscle Ridge Channel.
Muscle Ridge Channel begins between Whithead Light and Yellow Ledge Day Beacon. It goes on pass Lower Gangway Ledge, Hurricane Ledge, Oak Island Ledge, Upper Gangway Ledge, Inner Grindstone Ledge, Grindstone Ledge and finally into West Penobscot Bay.
It is about 6nm across West Penobscot Bay to Drunkard Ledge Danger Lighted Buoy which marks the beginning of the northeastern shore of North Haven at Stand-in Point. Of course, there are ledges to avoid here also. The coast gently curves to the northeast, and we see Wooster Cove and Barlett Harbor. Both are small indentations containing a house and a lobster boat each.
We are on the lookout for Pulpit Rock which usually has a massive osprey nest atop it but lacks one as far as I can see this year. Carrie Rose, sensing the end of her labors, take a wide starboard turn to avoid various unnamed spits and anchors in 27 feet.
The dock is a five-minute dinghy cruise, and the small grocery is a one-mile uphill walk. We can settle in and not have to listen to the diesel for almost as long as we want . . . perfect.
North Haven, Maine



















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