Saturday, August 8, 2026

August 4, 2026






 

 

Americans know, if ever travelling outside the country, that most things we do are constrained by the threat of lawsuits. Certainly, every decision I made during my career was colored by it. But we’ll come back to this.

 

From our floating pier at Front Street Shipyard in Belfast Maine, I can see through Carrie Rose’s pilothouse windows the bejeweled waters out into East Penobscot Bay. A little to my right is the Belfast City Marina and to its right three enormous painstakingly maintained Fourier tugboats. They are painted a somber red with yellow smokestacks displaying a large capital “F”.

 

Their names are the Captain Arthur Founier (who I met two decades ago, but that is another story), the Fournier Girls and the Fournier Tractor. They hug each other as they hug the side of the city walkway. 

 

To their right is a gathering of harbor buildings in various stages of ramshackle-ness, and to their right Front Street Shipyard’s two massive work sheds. Multiple sailing catamarans, sail and power cruising boats, superyachts and commercial ships are scattered throughout the gravel lot that the sheds empty into.

 

In a remarkable feat of common sense, the city and shipyard decided to ignore the liability of the common walkway passing right through the working shipyard. It adds to Belfast’s allure to stand a few feet away from the raising or lowering of towering craft into or out of the river.

 

And slightly back from the launchpad floats Steely Ann. We were told one of the founding partners of the shipyard, the son of the humorous E.B. White, domiciled here when in Belfast. It is constructed of three shipping containers fashioned into a slick piece of architecture and painted the same shade of red as the tugboats. 

 

Belfast is the terminus of the Passagassawakeay River. Access north on the river, except for small boats, is blocked by two bridges. The original low bridge has been turned into a walkway and the new lofty bridge has an unending stream of cars and trucks crossing east and west.

 

Rivers, at least in my experience, amplify the weather and the tidal currents flowing up and down stream. Through no planning of our own, we always come to dock on one of Front Street’s single floating piers when the current is roiling and the wind is happily gusting. A hard learned lesson is to dock into the current or the wind if the former is absent.

 

I make a wide turn in the narrow channel and adjust Carrie Rose’s path to negate the effects of the current. Another hard won lesson is to not spare the horsepower while executing this maneuver. I drive the port bow at a 45 degree angle to the dock and at the last second before a collision, spin the wheel hard right and power into (or just next too if lucky) the dock. 

 

If I get it correct, the stern, where Charlotte is stationed, will kiss the pier and allow a line to be secured to the cleat. Now hard in reverse for a second and with the help of the bow thruster counteracting the effect of the wind and current, keep us off the pier. A line tied midships and we are not going anywhere. I leisurely step off the boat onto the pier, and attach the bow line and add other lines as needed. 

 

To assertively drive the boat into the pier places my sympathetic nervous system in high gear. It is the opposite of running from an attacking grisly bear. On the way in I take slow abdominal breaths, so when the time comes I can ignore what my monkey mind is telling me to do and do as Admiral Nelson commanded and go straight at ‘em. 

 

The engine off signals the completion of the docking tasks. Charlotte and I usually find ourselves sitting in the salon soaking up the suddenly calm atmosphere. If we messed up there is a debriefing. If not, then it is best to leave things unsaid least we jinks the next attempt. 

 

I tend not to be superstitious, but let’s be serious, we are on a boat, on the water, where both demons and angels live!


Buck's harbor, Maine

Monday, August 3, 2026

August 3, 2026

 



  

 

An egg heady thing we do when on Carrie Rose is to stop at the libraries of the towns we visit. Many are quite nice in a traditional sense, but also in the effort each community has put into maintaining and restoring them.

 

The first thing we ask is if there are used books for sale. Vacationy areas tend to have interesting collections. In Maine, many of the “away” people are well off and well educated. And I guess, to be perfectly honest, so are we. They have travelled widely, have multiple interests, and have probably led interesting lives. This translates into a wealth of books on diverse topics.

 

At the moment the three books that sit next to my pilothouse bench illustrate this point: Granta, a quarterly magazine of new writing, with this copies theme of Music; Letters to a Young Novelist by the Peruvian novelist Mario Vargas Llosa; and High Clouds Soaring Storms Driving Low, the letters of the Maine author Ruth Moore.

 

Since I could not decide which to read first, I have been reading a bit of each, a bit of the time. The view out the pilothouse windows of Pulpit Rock and the schooners sailing out on Penobscot Bay keeps pulling my eyes and concentration from the printed page. It may be a long time before I finish any of them.

 

Earlier I skimmed through an odd book about the healing powers of Mount Dessert Island and longingly looked at photos of luscious French desserts in Gasto Lenotre’s Desserts and Pastries.

 

Last year was all about Churchill and Stalin and WWII. The books were enlightening but slow going and in the end depressing. This year I have unknowingly chosen lighter topics with one caveat: Frankenstein on my new Kindle.

 

Before leaving Chicago Amazon kindly informed me that my two seldom used Kindles were no longer functional. To compensate for their loss, I was offered twenty dollars off a new one, so I bought the least expensive model. Though I hate to admit it, it is a delight to use.

 

For some reason the first book I choose to read - in bed – was Frankenstein by Mary Shelley. It as a peculiar book written in a similar fashion to Grahm Stoker’s Dracula, which, by-the-way, I highly recommend. The problem may be that as I read it, I cannot get Mel Brook’s movie out of my head. Makes for some interesting thoughts upon closing my eyes to sleep.

 

As we make our way Downeast, I am excited to see what new treasures await us at the local libraries. A decidedly egg heady thing to do . . .

 

Belfast, Maine