Wednesday, August 14, 2019

Once


This is a story from early in the cruise, which I seem to have forgot about . . . .

Today was one of those days; up at 5:30, a quick breakfast then the pre-cruise inspection. There was 75’ of anchor chain laid out between Cross and Mink Islands, and it needed the mud hosed off most of the chain before our scheduled departure at 6:45.

I said it was one of those days, so the reason for the 6:45 departure was to arrive at the Quoddy Narrows at the last vestige of Maine in time to reach the Lubec Narrows Bridge at 10:18. And the reason for this was (for once) to try to cross from the Atlantic Ocean to the Passamaquoddy Bay at High Slack tide when the water would be calm.

If we reached it at the proper time then the current under the bridge will be minimal. If not then it makes for a hair-raising experience, as the entire bay begins to lower itself by twenty feet and much of its water passes under this bridge.

To reach the bridge at High Slack tide is the theory, alas, we have yet to succeed coordinating the variables involved. Some of these include integrating the low and high slack currents with the timing of low and high tide. Another is the time zone: Eastern Daylight and Atlantic Daylight time, which here exists directly across from each other. And then there is the lack of data concerning the current at the Lubec Narrows. All these make timing the transit difficult to pin down. So far, we have been off by plus or minus an hour.

The timing error becomes apparent as Carrie Rose is being sucked through (if it is low to high tide), or struggles to transit the two bridge pylons of the Lubec Bridge (if it is high to low tide). Of course, it is not quite that simple. There are strong eddies above and below the bridge.

If there is one thing I know about Carrie Rose, if I fully engage the throttle she will plant her stern deep into the water and go straight. I have only had to do this a few times, most notably on the New Jersey coast and now in northernmost Maine.

At this point in my boating career I should know better, but as we say in the Tea Ceremony: One meeting, one time. Each attempt is unique. I should end this tale now but there is more. Please feel free to stop reading at any time. You will not hurt my feelings.

As I mentioned above, we left Cross Island in Maine early this morning. A horrendous dream awoke me and I got up to look around. The entire anchorage was shrouded in fog. I could barely see the glow from Sir Tugley Blue’s anchor light. I crawled back into bed and I awoke at 5:30.

The surrounding fog was gone, but this was nature being deceitful. It did not take long for the fog to envelope us once out onto the Atlantic. To add to the fog there was squall after squall. Their only benefit being to temporarily blow the fog away.

More events took place: whirlpools, a pissed off (I did inadvertently yell at him) hulk-like Canadian border patrol agent, and more cold rain and fog.

Now on our mooring, the rain has stopped, the winds have calmed, and the cloud ceiling has risen. There may even be a sunset, and tomorrow it is predicted to be sunny and in the 70’s. All is well.

Oh, did I forget to mention that the water hose popped off the hot water heater and sprayed 50 gallons of water over the engine room (an easy fix if you can believe it) as we approached the Narrows. I think it is time to have a glass of wine, a bite to eat, and go to bed!

Sunday, August 4, 2019

Maine & Vermont


Carrie Rose Passing Bass Harbor Light, Mount Desert Island, Maine


Shore Acres Resort, Grand Isle, Vermont

2019 is the second year that circumstances have compelled us to travel home sooner then we might have. Not wanting to drive the 1200 miles in a couple of days, we have taken to wandering home. An unexpected pleasure is to visit with friends who live along the way.

One of our friends transplanted to a hilltop on an island in Lake Champlain. He and his wife are Vermont converts. Like all converts, as soon as we show up, they begin to extoll on the virtues of relocating to Vermont. This compelled me to think of the virtues of Maine versus Vermont.

It is not that we are considering moving to either of these states, too dark and too long of a winter, but I find the comparison thought provoking. So for what it is worth here goes.


Maine is edgy,

Vermont is chill.


Maine is cold water and fog,

Vermont is quiet comfortable fresh water.


Maine is devastating Nor’easters,

Vermont is summer squalls.


Maine is evangelical,

Vermont is Tibetan pray flags.


Maine is green lobsters,

Vermont is black and white cows.


Maine is green granite,

Vermont is black slate.


Maine is whales,

Vermont is Champ.


Maine is the Bay of Fundy,

Vermont is Lake Champlain.


Maine is ravaged,

Vermont is unmolested.


Niagara Falls, Canada