July 24, 2025

These last few days it is becoming progressively windier. The forecast called for even stronger S-SW winds today and into the night. The last several days we have been at one of our favorite spots: Warren Island State Park. It is part of a group of islands, the biggest of which is Islesboro, that separates East and West Penobscot Bay. Cruising between the bays I can almost see the glacier that ground its way SW and carved a 180 foot trough on each side of these islands.

 

The state park has been unmolested (except by summer campers) for a hundred years. It is groomed but in a hand’s off way. The islands best amenity, for me at least, is an approximately two mile hike arounds its perimeter. An easy walk, except for the black flies and mosquitoes. It winds through a pine and birch forest with an under belly of vibrant green ferns. Along the edges are scenes we have come to expect in Maine. 

 

There is the interaction between the forest and the sea, and the tides and currents. There is an unobtrusive mussel/oyster farm in a skinny channel between Warren and 700 Acre Islands; there are a multitude of colored lobster buoys along the island’s edges fished by few classic lobster boats; there is the large brightly lit ferry that crosses from Lincolnville to Islesboro; and there are visiting yachts of all makes and sizes, and if lucky, a large schooner will drop its anchor right outside the park’s mooring field.

 

A few years back we neglected to monitor the weather and were trapped by a NE storm that came charging down the bay and directly into our unprotected anchorage. That night of howling wind was added to the list of the sleepless nights that are unescapable if one cruises long enough. With this in mind, we decided to leave early and head 20 miles to a protected cove in Vinalhaven Island called Perry’s Cove. 

 

Perry’s Cove is a unique destination in an area of unique destinations. It is the domain of John, The Mayor, a gregarious gentleman that controls several free moorings while living on his 34 foot America Tug. All he asks for is a donation to help with the upkeep and conservation of the island. This being a perfect spot, it is often crowded with cruising boats. 

 

The cove is peppered with many mooring balls besides his. Most of these balls are uninhabited by the owner’s boats, so boats come in and take them for the night hoping their owners will not disturb them and mostly this is what happens. To top it off there is a resident eagle that swoops down the channel and over the trees in feats of acrobatics worthy of the Blue Angels.

 

Carrie Rose’s diesel while running, through a connection of hoses (that I try not to fret about), heats the water in the water heater. It can also provide heat through another series of hoses connected to a radiator with fans that blows hot air into the cabin. Nonetheless, it was the hot water we were concerned about because we had not had a shower in the three days since we left Belfast. This was remedied soon after the engine was shut down.

 

When I began to write I was going to describe the bumpy ride we had head on into 4 foot seas and 20 knot winds. I was going to mention that just to add to the stress we came here by an unfamiliar route. And that we were not sure there would be a mooring available, but that is all in a day’s work out on the water and the retelling can get pedantic, so I won’t . . .     

 

 Perry’s Cove, Vinalhaven, ME